Deep at the Break

Maria Del Mar Gonzalez

24 June 2010 -

I almost die twice today! We woke up at 5:45 am to leave the Tui Tai boat and drive more than three hours to go to the airport and get our flight to a different island. The flight had a delay and we wait one hour for it. We got the flight and we drove more than half hour to get a boat to go surf Frigates. We were in the boat for one more hour to get to the point. Finally, we get to Frigates and it was great. There were awesome waves. We start surfing it. But Holly and I were worried to don’t get too deep, because it had size. Here is when my story about die starts.

Holly and I got a couple of good waves, but in once we realized that we were deep at the break. A huge set came to us. We did the duck dive to the first wave, but the next one was so much bigger. I didn’t make the duck dive so the wave drags me all the way to the inside. I was without breath and other wave came to me and keeps dragging me. At least I got a breath and other wave came to me. I release my leash, because I thought it was better to dive without it. So other wave came to me and I was giving up. That wave has so much water. I use contact lens, but I opened my eyes between my nightmares. I finally got out and I started to paddle to the channel were the boat was. I got into the boat and I thought I was safe. But I wasn’t! When I was on the boat a wave came to us and I said that we should move out of here. At that moment another wave came to us and flipped the boat. I saw one of the photographers jumping out of the boat and I followed him. The videographer stayed at the boat hoping that the boat will pass the wave, but it didn’t happen. When I was out of the boat I saw the driver swimming behind me. I think that he jumped out of the boat before everyone. The boat was riding the wave backwards. Thousands of dollars in video camera gear are lost. Our great footage is lost. Bede getting sick waves at Frigates is lost!

I was thinking to go back to the point, but after the next experience I said: “Ok, it is enough for today! Are we sure that should we go dive with the bull sharks?” At that moment Holly came with my board and she realized that the boat that she just saw at the inside was our boat. Well, we made the check in at the Resort and we went to sleep to wait for the shark dive. At least I survived twice this day!

FIRING!

Cheyne Magnusson
23 June 2010 -

Wow! Lots of travelling today! We should change the name of the drop zone to planes, trains, and automobiles! So, the day begins with us leaving the Tui Tai at about 5:00 am. After that we take a three hour van ride to the airport. We arrive there and find out our flight is delayed an hour, as usual. Finally get on the plane for an hour and get off to quickly be informed we have another hour and a half bus ride to the harbor. Get to the harbor and take a two hour boat ride to the surf spot! Done. Sort of. Wow my fingers hurt after typing that! So the juice ends up being worth the squeeze and we pull up to a reef pass absolutely FIRING! Huge barrels and shallow water. Great combo. So we all freak out and jump off the boat like sharks at the first scent of blood. Everyone is getting good waves and having the best time ever. Then, Murphy’s law kicked in. I kicked out of a wave and a huge set behind it landed on my head. I bailed my board and my leash snapped, shit. I come up and immediately my broken leash leaves my thoughts at the sight I beheld at the surface. The dingy with all the photographers and video guys are literally riding a wave. I watch in horror as everybody bails out and the boat gets sucked over the falls and capsizes. Everyone was freaking, I made sure I could see everyone that was on the boat and started swimming towards them. Luckily, no one was badly injured and everyone made it back to the mothership in one piece. The tally for lost equipment was: 1 video camera, 1 still camera, the engine, everyones towels and clothes, and the priceless photos and video contained in the cameras. I was able to throw on a mask and somehow find the still camera lying on the bottom of the reef. It was unreal, but it could have been worse. So we all celebrated just being alive on the boat ride home with a couple beers and accepted our loss. Hey, you gotta pay to play.