30 June 2010

Deep at the Break

Maria Del Mar Gonzalez
24 June 2010 -

I almost die twice today! We woke up at 5:45 am to leave the Tui Tai boat and drive more than three hours to go to the airport and get our flight to a different island. The flight had a delay and we wait one hour for it. We got the flight and we drove more than half hour to get a boat to go surf Frigates. We were in the boat for one more hour to get to the point. Finally, we get to Frigates and it was great. There were awesome waves. We start surfing it. But Holly and I were worried to don’t get too deep, because it had size. Here is when my story about die starts.

Holly and I got a couple of good waves, but in once we realized that we were deep at the break. A huge set came to us. We did the duck dive to the first wave, but the next one was so much bigger. I didn’t make the duck dive so the wave drags me all the way to the inside. I was without breath and other wave came to me and keeps dragging me. At least I got a breath and other wave came to me. I release my leash, because I thought it was better to dive without it. So other wave came to me and I was giving up. That wave has so much water. I use contact lens, but I opened my eyes between my nightmares. I finally got out and I started to paddle to the channel were the boat was. I got into the boat and I thought I was safe. But I wasn’t! When I was on the boat a wave came to us and I said that we should move out of here. At that moment another wave came to us and flipped the boat. I saw one of the photographers jumping out of the boat and I followed him. The videographer stayed at the boat hoping that the boat will pass the wave, but it didn’t happen. When I was out of the boat I saw the driver swimming behind me. I think that he jumped out of the boat before everyone. The boat was riding the wave backwards. Thousands of dollars in video camera gear are lost. Our great footage is lost. Bede getting sick waves at Frigates is lost!

I was thinking to go back to the point, but after the next experience I said: “Ok, it is enough for today! Are we sure that should we go dive with the bull sharks?” At that moment Holly came with my board and she realized that the boat that she just saw at the inside was our boat. Well, we made the check in at the Resort and we went to sleep to wait for the shark dive. At least I survived twice this day!

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