25 June 2010 -
I just arrived home from a epic trip in Fiji. It was sad to leave the rest of the crew there. They had plenty more cool dives to go for and they were going to surf Cloud break which is one of my favourite waves in the world.
The last day of the trip for me was a wild day to say the least . It had some massive ups and downs . We left the Tui Tai super early in the morning and headed for Frigets which i was really excited about. I loved all the cool dives we went for but i was pretty frothing for a surf . It was a long and rough trip out to Frigets on the boat . It was really choppy and windy so we weren’t sure how the waves would be . I was kind of freaking it would be terrible but as we got closer to the break you could see these lefts just barreling down the reef . Instantly everyone was just frothing and was so keen to get out there as quick as they could .It was firing 6 foot with the odd bigger one . We couldn’t believe it no one out and perfect barrels .
We were all having the best surf taking turns and getting pitted off our heads. It was almost to good to be true then i caught probably the biggest wave i had in the session. I got a good pit and pulled off and I'm thinking where is the filmers boat and i look in and its up side down with all this gear floating and everyone swimming for there life to get out of the impact zone. It was so heavy. Greg and Mike lost all their gear but lucky no one was hurt and everyone made it back to the boat with Greg coming out the worst with a few cuts. It was a shame that the day had to end like that, but you can never underestimate the ocean.
So after all that i had to say my good byes and head home . It was a great trip i had some amazing dives and scored some perfect waves . I was stoked to be apart of such cool trip with really nice people . I look forward to the next Drop Zone .